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Coming back from the garden with the soil sticking to the soles of your boots, you have to admit, it's not very pleasant. But taking off your muddy boots can turn into a nightmare for anyone who isn't equipped. Little reminder, the first boot is removed with the help of the other boot, but for the second, it is often a different story. In this delicate operation, it is not uncommon to sacrifice a sock, when it is not your hands. Fortunately, not anymore, because super boot puller is there to get you out of this bad step! Difficulty : way Cost : Less than 10 euros Tools required : - a board - a jigsaw - P80 sandpaper - a drill - two wood screws and the corresponding bits Optional tools : - a grater - an ax - a clamp - an electric planer A plan would be useless, but to give some indications. - The length of the boot puller in this example is 40cm, its width 16cm, its thickness 2cm.
Step 1 (optional): Trim
Here is a nice recovery board, an old oak barn floor. It will be perfect for the occasion. But we will have to give it a semblance of balance. This is where the electric planer comes in to rough it up. Of course, those who bought their brand new and edged board in stores do not need this step.
Step 2: The raising block
Here is our board after a little facelift. A piece cut at one end will serve as a wedge to raise the part that allows to wedge the boot. Two schools, either on the edge, or flat as here. For our use, garden and rubber boots, it is not necessary to raise the boot puller excessively. But you will have to think about it if you intend it for other uses, such as dress boots for women who often have high heels.
For various reasons, you may have to put your foot on the boot puller before using it. Mainly to move it, either by pulling or by pushing, to bring it closer or away. The wedge in half-moon avoids the effects of too violent rocking when one puts his foot on the axis of the boot-boot, by allowing the board to rock gently around. Obviously it is still an option, but it will give a little more as well as a "rustic" side to your creation.
Stage 3 (optional): Half moon wedge
A block, an ax (or a wedge) to split the log in a half-moon. It will then be necessary to flatten the bottom of the wedge so that it fits well with the surface of the board.
Step 4: Cutting the shape
There are no rules and that is why there is no plan. It mainly depends on the width of your boots. If you have children, plan a cut that ends slightly in a point so that their little boots can get caught. Avoid making the shape too round at the bottom.
The jigsaw is essential in this figure of style. Take care to firmly fix your board using a clamp as in this photo. Quietly follow your course and do not try to do everything in one go, once at the bottom, start again on the other side to join the previous cut.
Step 5: Sanding the shape
If your jigsaw cut is not perfect, a small grater stroke will be useful to make up for any offset.
Sand the edges of the cut, and the sides of the board, to avoid splinters. Sand everywhere, but just be careful not to sand too much on the inside edge of the boot puller, the one that will wedge the boot.
Step 6: Drilling, screwing
Whether it is the right wedge, or the half moon, it will have to be drilled to prevent the wood from splitting when tightening the screws.
Once the wedge has been pierced, repeat the operation with a drill bit of equal or greater diameter at the head of your screws, so that they do not protrude and do not scratch the ground. We will drill to a depth of 0.5cm, this is more than enough to hide the head of the screws (it is sometimes more practical to drill the large diameter before the small).
All that remains is to position the wedge. Place the wedge two or three centimeters behind the bottom of the previous cut and screw.
Step 6a: Drilling a pre-hole (in the case of very hard wood)
Here, the wood is very hard, so here, too, we will have to make a pre-hole in the board. Screw the shim in the final position, until the screws mark the board. Remove the shim and pierce the board halfway through its thickness. Then reposition the wedge and screw. This step could very well have been done in one go (cross the hold and the board).
Step 7: Fitting
There you go, the boot puller is finished, and you can't wait to put on your boots to try it on.
This French manufacturing is even provided with a color manual. Little tips : - place your boot puller near a railing or a wall so that you can hang on to something. - If your boots are really full of mud, remove the first boot with the tip of the second so as not to dirty the board where you will put your sock to remove the second boot. - The last is not a tip, but a little common sense. When possible, put your bootie under cover, this will prevent it from aging prematurely, but it will also allow you, in case of rain, not to wet your socks. - You wonder why the commercial bootpins shrink at the other end. You are not alone. This reduces the overall stability of the boot puller without providing any benefit.